This video provides step-by-step instructions for replacing the drive block on top loading direct drive Whirlpool washing machines. The most common reasons for replacing the drive block are when the washer vibrates too much, leaves clothes soaking wet, makes a loud knocking noise at the beginning or end of the spin cycle, or doesn’t spin at all.
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All the information in this drive block replacement video is applicable to the following brands: Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Estate, Inglis, Crosley, Amana, Admiral
Tools used: flat-head screwdriver, Phillips head screwdriver, pliers, putty knife, 7/16” socket, hammer
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In addition to providing replacement parts, RepairClinic.com offers free online troubleshooting information and DIY repair videos. Use our website to choose from a series of problems to discover the likely causes and the correct replacement part(s) for your particular model. Once you’ve determined the solution, our expertly-produced video tutorials will guide you through every step of the repair.
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Excellent video. I fixed it myself and saved a ton of money! (Not bad for a 55 year old woman.) Thank you!
I replaced the drive block but it started doing the banging thing again. I tore it back down and noticed that the piece with the two tabs that lock into the drive block are all rounded off and worn down. What's the name of this part and how much will the replacement go for? Any videos that take it a step further? Thanks
My 80 series Kenmore a weird squeal during the spin cycle. I thought it was a bearing…would it be the drive block?
so if i have grease coming out the agitater base it must be coming from the transfer case, or is there a seal on the tranfer case i can change out ?
Thanks for the very helpful video. It helped perfectly and the machine works perfectly now. Keep up the quality instructional videos.
How do you know if you have a bad drive block.. i'm looking at mine.. trying to tell if it's bad…
This has to be the CLEANEST broke washing machine EVER lol. Very useful video. Thanks guys!
I went on line searching for the tick,tick,tick noise, and found it. I was advised that it was a drive block problem. Bought the part and installed it. No easy task getting the drum out. I didn't see a difference between the new and the old one and sure enough, it didn't fix the tick,tick,tick. I guess its gonna stay that way.
My washer is making very loud thumping noises only at the end of the spin cycles. Which part(s) do I need to troubleshoot for this problem. The spin cycle seems to be working fine other than this noise at the end.
I cannot see this part is broken or damaged after removing the agitator(Model is LSR6132HQ1). It appears to me that this part is fixed, not a moving part. What problem will this part cause for my washer? My washer has grinding or loud noise when it starts the agitating. it is turning one direction only, not back and forth. I can turn the agitator either way without resistance. The coupling is good, not broken. I replaced a new coupling to make sure that coupling is not the problem. But it is still the same. Can you help me for the problem?
Fortunately for me this was an easy job because I had previously taken out both the inner and outer tubs to replace the pads, suspension springs and outer tub seal. I would suggest for anyone removing the inner tub for the first time to spray wd40 around the drive block and let it sit overnight. It took me two hours and a lot of pulling and shaking before the tub finally broke free. As I suspected, there was a lot of corrosion. Unfortunately, I didn't think about having to replace a corroded drive block, so I had to take the tub out a second time to get that replaced.
The only tool is the one to get the nut off. Spanner Wrench 1021707 once the nut is off there is no other tool to pull out the inner tub. You can try putting a small piece of 2×4 on the top edge of the tub and hit it with a sledge hammer or another heavy object on opposite sides to break it loose. Be careful not to hit the tub directly it will damage the tub.
I'm back even more frustrated….is there a tool I can buy to remove the tub? I've used wd40 and that's not helping either.
After the nut is removed the tub should come off, there is nothing else holding it on. It may just be stuck on the drive block. You will need to push and pull hard around the outer edge of the tub until it breaks free.
I've pushed, pulled, and lifted the tub but nothing is happening! What else could I do? What is causing the tub to be stuck? I'm getting very frustrated……..
I'm lifting, pulling, and pushing the tub……nothings happening!!! What else can I do? What is causing the tub to be stuck?
You may have to alternately push up and down on opposite sides of the top of the tub to get the tub to release. Once the tub is released it will pull off the block. The block may stay in the tub and come off the spin tube, that is ok you will just have to knock it out after the tub is removed.
I'm trying to take out the tub but it's not coming out. What should I do to get it out? FYI: If I spin it to the right, it spins but if I spin it to the left, it locks.
my washer tries to spin but makes 2 noises, the first is the mechanics inside trying to spin the washer but it halts like 2 seconds later and it stops and then the timer keeps buzzing, i've removed the motor to check to coupling and it was alright, so then what could my problem be? brake? transmission? clutch? or anything else?
SO WHEN THE DRUM SPINS DOWN AND LOUD BANGING IS HEARD, IT IS THE DRIVE BLOCK, WHY IS THE DRIVE BLOCK WORN, IS IT PLASTIC, OR SOME OTHER CHEAPNESS????
My tub seems to be seized to the drive block. It doesn't just lift off and I can see the drive block lift slightly as I lift the tub but it stops moving after about 1/16 of an inch.
We recommend using the repair help section of our website (link in the description). If you enter your model number there you'll have access to model, part and symptom specific repair help. We hope this helps!
i need help with an old washer that makes a lot of noise while in spin cycle Kenmore heavy duty 60 series!
An improperly installed or worn clutch can definitely produce a burning smell. This is typically coupled with a scraping noise.